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Last Few Hunts, Four Gold


“The Squad”

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W/P TDI Pro: Great deep pulse but it could be more stable–especially in fast salt water.  Really, its me that has a lot to learn with this one.  Great to have a waterproof machine that’s gold field capable.t’s

Goldquest Aquasearch:  An old standby that has great optimisation.  The tune-albe SAT is also good on hills or interference zones.

Cuda:  Jimmy Pugh’s machine is probably my overall favorite just because it’s nimble, deep and has superb optimization and depth.

White’s Dual Field: Found a lot with these too–deep and with nice audio.  The coil size can be a problem in black sand but it has enough sensitivity to get chains too.

Minelab CTX3030:  You can’t get a better “cherry-picker” for hunting gold in the water than the CTX.  Could be better in fresh water black sand but in salt the stability, depth and accuracy make it a great workhorse for covering trash-laden sites fast and not getting bogged down on the junk.

 

cjc

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“I gots gold fever…!”

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A buddy sent me these two beauties fresh from the Aussie gold fields.  I’m so hooked–I’ve changed my scale from grams to DWT”S–“…get me Mr. Keene on the phone…!”

 

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Book Excerpt: “A Function of the Numbers”

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6/ A “Function of the Numbers“

Large numbers of people always increase your odds of finding something of value.  These numbers can be in the form of day-to-day crowds or cumulative–the result of usage over time.  At my local beach there is rarely much jewelry to be found.  However around mid July we have several of what we call “overflow” days with exceptionally large crowds and beachgoers sitting in areas that are generally unused.  These dozen or so days replenish the coin supply for the entire season, and because the numbers are sufficient, virtually all the gold jewelry that is found throughout the year is lost then.  Its almost mathematical–the same every year with only one explanation–it’s a “function of the numbers!”  While this applies specifically to beach and shoreline hunting, it’s an important principle–always look for the center of where people congregate.   If there are three words that I can say to a newer hunter on the subject of “site-reading” they are: main, main and main–always look for what is main.”  My experience from years of detecting specifically for jewelry has taught me the importance of recognizing this prime ground.  I also believe in what’s called the “big find theory” which states; “Because there is more likelihood of any valuable item being lost in the busiest section of a site, there is an even greater likelihood of an extremely valuable object being lost there as well. ”  It just makes sense that the least frequent event will occur at the most likely spot.  No doubt any Las Vegas odds maker would agree.

Where you have locations that have produced before, there are often antecedent factors that will alert you to the fact that sufficient numbers are present.  For example, I notice that for a season to have good beach hunting, there needs to be a string of hot days, rather than just a few here and there.  This gets people into the habit of going to the shore.   There may also be other indicators–such as how many coins there are to be found in a particular area.  While this idea of “guesstimating” is discussed more thoroughly in my previous book ”Water Hunting: Secrets of the Pros”  (Digdigdig Publications, 2005) it is important to mention that where you do see a history of items being lost or found, the pattern is likely to repeat.  Some of the best site advice I can give is to “always defer to the tried and true,” and this usually involves following the numbers.

While more will be said about this later, one way to learn more about what makes up a good detecting site is to compare them. Often you will see sections of the same beach or park that seem identical but one will be good hunting and the other terrible.  I mention this here because it highlights the importance of numbers, in that usually the difference between these locations can be traced to numbers–do people go to that location and stay?   A glance may reveal evenly distributed crowds, but one section may be more of a transit route where people do not spend any time.  Look for those locations where people are actually going.

Massive numbers such as on this Korean beach usually mean treasure, but there are other considerations that need to be examined to determine a site’s potential.

From: “Site-Reading for Gold and Silver” by Clive James Clynick

clivesgoldpage.com

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Minelab Sovereign and Excalibur: “All-Metal Carry Over Responses”

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Understanding All-Metal Carry-Over Responses

When I began hunting with the Sovereign and Excalibur, I noticed that a lot of signals had this segmented quality that usually meant that something was very close to the coil.  A signal would come in with a wide, drawn-out sound, give a normal tone in the middle, then go out with the same long tone. As I began to examine what was causing this sound,  I recognized that these were almost always targets with some iron or steel in them.  The exceptions were objects that were very small and right on the surface.  These “carry­over” responses can teach a lot about how the Excalibur performs.  In effect, what you are hearing is the machine trying to form a “bridge” between the steel or iron in the object and the surrounding ground–just as it does with a false signal. The difference is that this false signal is interrupted by a good one–the non iron / steel part of the target.  This good signal makes up the “blip” in the middle, and the carry-overs are basically a reflection–the interaction of signal and ground.  What this means is that if you are hunting for objects with no iron or steel, listening for signal with less of this carry-over

Understanding BBS All Metal Carry-Over Responses

effect can help you to tell which signals are not iron.  This works well, although there are some exceptions.  These exceptions show themselves by how much of the signal is in the middle portion versus the outside.  As a rule, good signals will be louder in the middle, if they have any carry-over at all.  Targets such as gold or coins with no steel will not make this sound, because there is no ferrous content to confuse the detector as to what is target and what is surrounding ground.  Carry-over responses will be more pronounced with larger coils as these draw more response from the ground.  Understanding them is a valuable tool for working in high-trash environments.  Listening for this difference is especially good for telling bobby pins from earrings, chains or other small gold targets.  As you progress in using all-metal mode to double-check responses, you should be able to tell which responses will give a discriminate tone before you switch over, by the width and carry-over properties of a signal. This should include recognition of steel alloys like most bottle caps too.  Developing this skill will give your accuracy a quantum boost.

From: “Advanced Methods for Finding Gold in the Water with the Minelab Excalibur” by Clive James Clynick

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“Cuda Deluxe!”

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Was very lucky to acquire this pristine Anchor Electronics Barracuda from a buddy who “knew I would take good care of it” just as he’s done.   The super rare large coil is mint and has had preventive mods done to the hardware.  This 9V detector is very deep, has superb gold optimization and the best audio of any pulse I’ve seen–letting you hear the caps, pins–even steel-clad coins with ease.  It’s also good in black sand–down in the bottom of the trenches were the “lunkers” hide.  Biloxi’s Jimmy Pugh made these six at a time and did a really great job on them right down to the silver solder.   A lot of the information in “Pulsepower” on running and maintaining P.I. machines I learned from Jimmy–a highly knowledgeable guy and a great water hunter.

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More ‘Cuda…

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Courtesy of the “Wayback Machine…”

“Strikes fast–Bites deep!”

http://web.archive.org/web/19990208011333/http://www.anchorelectronics.com:80/

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Identifying Bottle Caps with the Minelab Sovereign and Excalibur

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Identifying Bottle Caps

I thought it would be a good idea to write a separate section on identifying the ever-present bottle cap.  One reason is because firstly many caps have a nice spongy sound that can initially be mistaken for gold.  Secondly, with its multiple frequencies, the Excalibur readily latches on to the varied metals that bottle caps contain.  However, it is the way that the detector acquires and leaves the cap signal that makes them identifiable.  The Excalibur gets its discriminate accuracy by grouping targets into the frequency ranges that they occupy.  With a cap, these are many; meaning that the detector has to work hard to make these multiple classifications.  This causes a difference in the signal tone.  Caps come in one of two ways.  Shallow ones sound abrupt, with multiple tones entering at once.  The deeper, rusted ones are long, drawn out signal–usually more recognizable as something that is not completely non-ferrous.  Both will have multiple “notes” or pitches in the tone.  As the detector tunes to the most central frequencies of the target the tone becomes smoother and even more likely to fool you, but in your initial passes where it is being compared to more of the surrounding ground, these multiple tones can be heard.  This is the same “defining” effect that makes a coin sound cleaner and higher as you “wiggle” the coil across it.

Bottle caps can also be identified by how their varied composition causes them to enter the detection field.  The detector must work hard to gather in a reading on all these metals and produce a tone response.  This takes time and with practice it is possible to recognize the “lag” in response time when the coil is swept over a cap. Coins, gold and other objects which are not such diverse alloys respond more quickly and cleanly.

Another way to identify caps is that because they are composed of so many metals, the Excalibur does not always choose the same one to report. Changing your sweep speed and angle will often produce these different tones.

Identifying caps by tone and signal characteristic is something that is definitely worth putting in some time at the bench to learn.  Side-by-side tests over ground are a good idea too, because these are basically coil control methods.

As well, the steel, tin and or rust in a cap are similar to the ground.  This causes the signal to have a unique quality that results from the detector attempting to separate ground from target.  The signal:

  • Drops at the ends as the ground / steel distinction is reported.
  • Has a clipped tone as the machine tunes out the steel (rather than the target’s natural “ramp up / ramp down).”  In a sense the detector’s circuits shut out the target at the point where it resembles ground too much.

Most bottle caps also are what can be called a “radiating” signal, in that instead of being a smooth tone arc, more of the response is in the rough drawn-out edges that are this interaction between iron / steel and ground.  Understanding how this “radiation” operates is the key to identifying most iron by using observing if the signal appears to move when approached from various angles. More on this below.  Several hunters report that although they can readily identify a cap by its tone with the 10’ coil (described as a”broken crackle),” but with a larger coil, they sound like good targets.  This is because the larger coil is reading more ground and reducing this down (confusing ground and steel) into a solid-sounding signal, whereas the smaller coil makes the distinction more cleanly.  Some caps are high in aluminum content and will just plain sound good.  In particular, one green-bottle premium beer brand makes caps that sound very close to a completely non-ferrous target and in fact, digging them is a good sign that you are accurate in making this important distinction.

Developing your ability to recognize bottle caps is a very important skill because there are just so many of them at most sites.  There are also a lot of varieties of them.  As with many problem targets, although there is no one “iron-clad” cap identifier, understanding these general principles and observing the sum total of a signal’s features will help you to make accurate calls.

From: “Beach, Inland and Shallow Water Treasure Hunting with the Minelab Sovereign Series Metal Detectors” by Clive James Clynick

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Book Excerpt: “Sand Textures”

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Sand Textures

This is equally as important as the grade.  As we move into examining the site conditions in deeper water, the texture of the material becomes more important.  Sand texture determines whether or not there will be heavy targets present. A big part of “staying off the light stuff” involves being able to recognize when the objects you are finding have been moved to where they are by the waves and current.  These will generally be junk–light coins, bottle-caps, tabs and other items that are basically your worst enemy. (It’s important to note that where there is strong current, even the presence of coins does not mean that there will be any gold present) A good term used by one Coney Island pro for this material is “fluff” worthless light junk, drifting around–like “dust bunnies”– and of about as much value.  Working in this sand is a critical mistake in that it takes up time that could be better spent even looking for areas with better sand grade and texture.  Where you do encounter soft sand, try to determine how deep it is, and whether it’s consistent.  Are there any areas that do allow you access to more solid ground?  The presence of soft sand does not necessarily mean that all heavy targets are out of reach.  Only what you dig up can confirm how the sand texture, grade and strata are related.  Corroded coins, gravel, clay– the presence of nails, or other dense objects are indications that you are on the right track.  Nails in particular are a good indicator in that they are heavy enough to move and rest in much the same way as gold.  At a site at which you do usually find nails, (or fishing sinkers), where you are seeing (or hearing) none, suspect that you are in overburden / new grade.

The kind of sand that is present can also relate to the season, (material that has been sitting up against edge ice over winter), the tide cycle, or wind and wave activity.

Although so many new pulse-hunters are concerned about the problem of having no discrimination with a pulse–the real question is not what a given target is, but more importantly:What is this material, and what could be in with it?”  There’s no use having a machine that searches 18 inches down if the sand you are working is too light to retain any solid targets.

It’s the dense, more solid material that will produce more often because it is more likely to have been there for longer.  As well, it will be closer to the marl.  Often where there is “mixed” (varied textures) ground the first thing I do when I get a signal is to dig my toe in and “swish” it around to get an idea of how the sand texture relates to a response of the signal’s size and solidity.  You can often tell that something is too light to be gold just by doing this test.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This superb 1940’s 18K band (11.7 grams) is an example of the kind of targets that pulse induction depth and careful attention to sand grades /textures will produce.

From: “Pulsepower: Findng Gold at the Shore with a Pulse Induction Metal Detector”

Home: http://clivesgoldpage.com/

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Book Excerpt: Excalibur / Sovereign Signal Quality Charts

“When in doubt–buy a machine…”

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2 of 3 Dual Fields one modded by Bill Lahr to 12 uSc–PI Pro threshold / “front end”. Fisher CZ 5 “Mr Goldmaster” phones

Minelab Excalibur “Blue Tubes” interchangeable coils and phones.

Eric Foster CS6PI 10″ coil

Eric Foster Goldquest Aquasearch 12″ coil

Anchor Electronics Barracuda (2) 8 & 12″ coils.

Whites TDI Pro waterproof Pelican 1070 case.

Minelab CTX 3030 stock and large coil.

Nokta Impact + 3 coils

Minelab Sovereign X2 Pro DTI 111 meter, (works with Excalibur coils via a Bulgin jumper).

Pending: Minelab Equinox 800…

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Book Excerpt: “Do What Others Won’t, or Can’t”

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“Do What Others Won’t, or Can’t”

This is an idea I’ve heard expressed by several top hunters.  The trick is figuring out what that is.  As the example below will illustrate, rather than just being discouraged by the presence of other hunters, it’s important to try and observe just what they are doing and how effective they are.  The real test is being able to respond accurately.  This may involve detecting deeper, working with more accuracy, hunting deeper water, putting in time at the edge, working in coral or rocks—any number of things.  This is where versatility comes in.   Several top hunters I know take this a step further and own hookah rigs for extreme deep water, (even dredges for super prime areas), and drysuits for cold weather  hunting to take advantage of winter storms.   Conversely, you may at some point find that others are doing what you won’t or can’t.  This is where experience, skill and site knowledge come into play.  It might not be the hardest way of hunting that works, just the one that’s accurate for the conditions.   Even the type of scoop you choose the use can be a big advantage.  I’ve gone into areas of heavily worked sites that had river stones.  Because of my scoop’s “Euro-Point” I was the only one able to dig and found several gold rings that way.  As well recently, many of my best, heaviest ring finds came from holes that others had made in poor dig attempts or digs that also contained a few bobby pins.  Sometimes doing “what others won’t or can’t” simply involves re-checking the hole.  This is especially true in rough surf environments where heavy targets will often be moved–and come to rest together.

Running multiple machines give you greater versatility.  I’ve never owned a detector that didn’t more or less pay for itself sooner or later!

The concept of “trash tolerance” is also important here in that it’s the mark of an experienced hunter to know when to “turn this ability on” and when to cover ground more quickly just to get an idea of what the conditions are like.   Anyone can dig for hours—the key is knowing when to decide that it’s worthwhile to do so.

One Caribbean site I hunt comes to mind.  There is a sloped edge into the water that’s composed of very soft sand.  While it doesn’t’ change that much, the hotel is expensive and the guests have a lot of expensive, heavy gold.  Although the beach is hunted frequently, none of the locals understands the conditions.  A slow, methodical pulse hunt on this soft slope always gets a few heavy 18k rings that are too deep for VLF (or even unaware pulse hunters).   My point is that when you fully understand the conditions there are often a lot of obvious opportunities for you that others miss.

From: “Water Hunting: Secrets of the Pros, Vol 2” (2017) by Clive James Clynick

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“A Snorkel of Great Beauty!”

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Behold the exquisite beauty of this rare “Oceanmaster Taiwan” snorkel..  These are not easy to find–there are even knock-offs around as they are no longer made.  If you get in the habit of breaching more or less vertically the valve is bone dry–best I’ve seen.  The tube is super wide for nice breaths.  They come up on EBay from time to time–try to get a new one–they can be damaged up around the valve if transported poorly.  The mouthpiece should be replaced with one that has tougher bite-sides–and not clear unless you don’t mind a sunburned tongue.  I’ve added a flotation and keeper reinforcement–waves happen…   And it goes without saying–beware of the Global Shipping Program–a racket if there ever was one…

The “Oceanmaster Taiwan”

 

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My Silver Secrets

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Finding silver coins at inland sites is a great challenge.  I also enjoy taking an old coin from the ground and wondering what the world was like when it was lost.  Here’s some of the methods tthat have worked well for me.

1/ I always look for something that would cause silver to be lost rather than just hunting open ground.  I focus on hills, seating areas around the shade of big trees, or sports areas.  I also watch for tufted grass circles that indicate where a big tree has been removed.

2/ I try and scout the depth of  the topsoil by looking at the depth and date of any pennies I find.  This tells me how deep any silver would be lying.

3/ I use detectors that are good around iron.  The Minelab Sovereign, Minelab CTX 3030 and Nokta Impact are some favorites.  I especially like the Impact because it’s fast and reaches down into the iron range to give great targets separation.   It also has great, clean audio.

4/ I also look for those areas which show signs of pre-1970’s activity.  Dense bottle caps are a good sign.  Where you have prime shade or other attractions–it’s a good idea to take a few of these caps out to see what’s underneath.

5/ I also try to “mix it up” using different sweep speeds, lengths and directions.  In heavily hunted ground–always try working on the diagonal to bring up additional targets.

clivesgoldpage.com

Some silver coins from the last few years.

The post My Silver Secrets appeared first on Clive's Gold Page.

CTX 3030 Wand Fix

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When I noticed that the isolator on my CTX was staring to rotate a bit and shorten when I leaned on it the first suspect was that the soft carbon fibre was wearing.  Turns out it’s the cam-lock.  This can easily be solved by rotating it completely and looking for the worn areas that contact the lower wand–holding it steady.  I then put a thin layer of epoxy on these two areas to make for better engagement with the isolator.   Works well–nothing worse than a wiggly detector that does not stay at the length you set it to.  The epoxy can then be filed as needed.  Make sure that it’s moving properly before the epoxy sets!

clivesgoldpage.com

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Couple of Good Hunts Last Week

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50 Grams total–Russian chain is 14k pendant 18k 20 grams, the other pendant is 18k and the rest is 14k–largest band at center is 7.9 gr.  Did a lot of work with the CTX 3030 and tested a few pulses.  The CTX is a strong salt water performer–it was hitting small tabs down over 12″ using Andy’s Beach and (a modded) Jay’s Gold–my two standards.  The two P2’s are great for open, low interference ground–Jay’s being a bit smoother with more rejection at the bottom.   Also a couple of Ray Bans, and one set of Coach glasses (not shown)–about $100 each.  As much as I like my pulse machines, the CTX 3030 gave me an edge over the locals-allowing me to use my time well and stay on the clean, prime low conductor signals.  There just weren’t the deep sand / changing grade conditions that make pulse hunting effective.   At one point I was hunting a resort and realized that a main entry path on shore was way over at one end–where there were not even any chairs on the beach.  Going over there got me the 7.9 gram band. 

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This Year’s Gold So Far: 6.7 ozs.

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I’ve certainly had worse years and still going yet.  Couple of standouts in the front include a .50 rock, a 22 k band 7.9 gr. a Cartier band, a 14.7 gr. PT band and a lunker 18k band 11.7 gr.   The chain is 20 gr. 14k cross 18k. I’ve heard people say that “it’s all in who goes over an item first”   Disagree.  Solid technique, knowing your sites and machines and a bit of luck are what’s needed these days. Please be sure to check out my products page.  I’ve gotten some great tips and advice from top hunters over the years and it’s all available to you in my books.

Good Luck Detecting, clive

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Book Excerpt: “Downloading and Using Programs with the CTX 3030 ExChange Software”

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45/ Downloading and Using Programs with the CTX ExChange Software

When I opened the graphics of the ExChange2 software I was a bit intimidated.  Once I saw how simple and intuitive it was–it became second nature.  First install the software from the disc and register.

Open up the program and source a program fine to download.  I will be bringing as many files as can be found to my site:

http://clivesgoldpage.com/ under: “CTX 3030 Programs

This file will be placed in your “Downloads” folder.

On the right you will see a file titled: “File”.  This is the “landing strip” for anything you want to bring in.  When you click on “File” an icon opens up in the grey strip above–a square with an arrow in it–indicating “Upload.”  Click on this icon and you will be asked to select a file–a Minelab (MLF) file.  Look around for your file and double click on it.  The program will then be placed in the “File” area.  From there you can drag and drop it either into the “All” folder or into any of the “Collection” folders that you can chose to create.   To create a “Collection” click the plus sign in e book at top left.  This will bring up a set of choices as to how you will name, colour code and select an icon for this folder.  Mine are: “Gold” and “Inland”.

Once you have brought in the programs you want to use you are ready to transfer them to the CTX.  To do this unscrew the USB port on the CTX.  Then insert the supplied cord into both the CTX’s USB port and the one on your PC or laptop.  Momentarily, the detector will show at the top left–above “All”.  The CTX will hold 9 programs, so to bring in new ones some may have to be deleted.  To do this click on the CTX file and you will see al of the installed programs listed.  Drag and drop the unwanted one to “Recycle”.   These can still be restored later.

From “All” or “File” drag and drop any programs you want to install to the CTX area.  To complete the install, go to the right bottom corner of your computer screen and click the upwards arrow to show items in the “Tray” .  There will be a small icon of a finger drive.  When you hover the cursor over it–it will say: “Safely Remove Hardware and Remove Media”.  Click on this icon and the CTX will be visible as connected.  Then click on this and the CTX will be ejected from your system.  To complete the program install turn the CTX off.  It will show that it’s downloading programs and shut off automatically when done.  Be sure to thoroughly inspect the threads of the USB cap before securely replacing it.  See the section above on securing this cap properly.  You are now ready to hunt with your new CTX 3030 programs.  Additional sources of CTX 30309 programs to try will be given in the Appendix of this book.

Each file can then be recalled and edited by clicking on the small “pencil and paper” icon in the right hand corner of each search program file.  This will bring up all of its features and discriminate patterns to be edited.   This is much easier than trying to make changes in the field.

All files can also be exported to be shared by e-mail or posted on “Facebook.”  As discussed above, I’ve had good success downloading and testing custom programs from around the world to refine ones for my specific purposes–finding gold in the water.

The ExChange software also acts as a storage for your “GeoHunt” “Waypoint” and “Findpoint” files and these can be found under “All” and moved to where you want to store them.

From: “A Practical Guide to Finding Gold, Silver & Coins with the Minelab CTX 3030” by Clive James Clynick 

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“The Gold Jewelry Hunter’s Handbook”

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I chose this book to feature this week because the part at the back on shoreline grades, contours, classification, trenches etc. were what I had needed to learn for many years. The first season I began concentrating entirely on hunting the “marl”–my

finds really took off. At one point I did 4 1/2 ounces of gold (see pic) in four weeks.   Most of the books of mine that interest people are machine specific so I feel a need to promote this one because it’s about the important question of “where”.  When you understand your shorelines thoroughly–half the work of finding gold is done.   The book also contains  lot of solid, proven effective principles and methods for the beach and inland gold hunter.

The Gold Jewelry Hunter’s Handbook:
Finding Lost Gold at Beach, Park and Shoreline Metal Detecting Sites

By Clive James Clynick
Clive James Clynick is the author of 15 previous treasure hunting “how-to” books and numerous articles. In this detailed and informative book he draws upon his 30-plus years of detecting experience to create this unique guide to hunting specifically for gold jewelry with a metal detector at beach, park and shoreline sites. Topics include:
Selecting a Gold-Hunting Detector.
Gold in Your Neighborhood.
Understanding How and Where Gold is Lost.
Recognizing Gold Signals with any Detector.
Accuracy and Skill Building.
Managing Junk by way of Selectivity.
Time Usage and On-site Course Correction.
Understanding Shoreline Grades and Contours.
“Marl Hunting.”
Getting in at the Edge with Waders.
Advanced Beach, Park and Shoreline Site Analysis.
…and much more.

$16.95 (100 pgs., 8.5 x 5.5 softbound).
Shipping (US) $ 5.00 / International $ 10.00
Ordering: http://
clivesgoldpage.com

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“Advanced Shallow Water Metal Detecting: Tips, Tricks & Methods for the Shoreline Treasure Hunter”

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Thought I would do a promo on this book my personal favorite.  This isa book for anyone who wants to really get out there and operate at the highest level.  It covers machine choices and applications, equipment handling, understanding grades, access, rough and deep water basics, shoreline dynamics, classification, exchange–things that some of the best  guys in the hobby have taught me.

  1. Shallow Water Metal Detecting: “Lessons from the Pros”
    By Clive James Clynick
    Clive James Clynick is the author of ten previous treasure hunting books and numerous articles. In this detailed and informative book Mr. Clynick draws on his 30 years of detecting experience and that of top pros worldwide to produce this advanced guide for the serious water and shoreline treasure hunter. Topics include:
    • -advanced site selection and analysis.
    • -spotting and acting upon site patterns.
    • -success in heavily-worked conditions.
    • -using multiple machines accurately.
    • -pro-level equipment handling tips.
    • -“edge hunting”
    • -post-storm detecting.
    • -underwater methods.
    • – traveling to detect.
    • -pro-level beach hunting tips.
    • – and much more…

      $14.95 (94 pgs., 8.5 x 5.5 softbound).

    • Clive's Gold Page

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